101. SMOKE SCREEN
Smoke is the soul of true barbecue. As you climb the ladder of barbecue enlightenment, you’ll want to be able to smoke a variety of foods in a variety of grills and smokers. This show explores four diverse foods: ribs, turkey, salmon, and even a dessert—prepared in a traditional offset barrel smoker, a water smoker, a charcoal grill, and a stovetop smoker. Sorry…no gas grills allowed.
Smoke is the soul of true barbecue. As you climb the ladder of barbecue enlightenment, you’ll want to be able to smoke a variety of foods in a variety of grills and smokers. This show explores four diverse foods: ribs, turkey, salmon, and even a dessert—prepared in a traditional offset barrel smoker, a water smoker, a charcoal grill, and a stovetop smoker. Sorry…no gas grills allowed.
KANSAS CITY-STYLE RIBS
WITH SPICY APPLE BARBECUE SAUCE
Source: Adapted from Raichlen on Ribs (Workman, 2006)
Method: Smoking/ indirect grilling
Serves: 4
Advance preparation: none
For the rub and the ribs:
1 tablespoon seasoning salt, such as Lawry’s
1 tablespoon ground black pepper
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon meat tenderizer
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 racks St. Louis cut spare-ribs (4 to 5 pounds total)
2 12-ounce bottles beer
Spicy Apple Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows)
You’ll also need:
4 cups hickory chips or chunks, or as needed, or applewood logs (optional)
Bottle sprayer or mister (optional)
Make the rub. Place the seasoned salt, pepper, sugar, paprika, garlic powder, meat tenderizer, and cayenne in a bowl and stir to mix, breaking up any lumps with your fingers.
Prepare the ribs. Place a rack of ribs meat side down on a baking sheet. Remove the thin, papery membrane from the back of the rack by inserting a slender implement, such as a butter knife or the tip of a meat thermometer, under it. The best place to start is on one of the middle bones. Using a dishcloth, paper towel, or pliers to gain a secure grip, peel off the membrane. Repeat with the remaining rack.
Arrange the ribs on a baking sheet. Sprinkle on both sides with the rub, rubbing the spices into the meat.
Set up your smoker and preheat to 225 to 250 degrees.
Arrange the seasoned ribs bone side up in your smoker. Smoke until nicely browned and very tender, 5 to 6 hours in all, turning the ribs over half way through. After the first hour, mist or mop the ribs with beer; after that, mist or mop every hour until you apply the barbecue sauce.
Brush the ribs with the barbecue sauce for the last 30 to 45 minutes of smoking.
Transfer the ribs to a large platter or cutting board. Let the ribs rest for a few minutes, then cut the racks in half or cut into individual ribs. Serve with extra barbecue sauce.
Spicy Apple Barbecue Sauce
Makes about 2-1/2 cups
1 cup ketchup
2 cups apple juice
1/3 cup molasses
1/4 cup cider vinegar
1/4 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1-1/2 teaspoons chile powder
1/2 teaspoon celery seed
1-1/4 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
Coarse salt (kosher or sea) and freshly ground black pepper
Place the ketchup, apple juice, molasses, vinegar, brown and granulated sugar, chile powder, celery seed, cinnamon, and cloves in a large heavy saucepan and gradually bring to a boil over medium heat, whisking to mix.
Reduce the heat to low and simmer the sauce until thick and richly flavored, about 40 minutes, whisking often. Correct the seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste. The sauce should be highly seasoned.
SMOKE-ROASTED RASPBERRY-PEAR CRUMBLE
Source: Adapted from BBQ USA by Steven Raichlen (Workman Publishing, 2003)
Method: Indirect grilling
Serves: 6-8
2 pints fresh raspberries, picked over
1 large ripe pear (Asian or Bartlett), peeled, cored, and diced
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
3⁄4 cup all-purpose flour
1⁄2 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 cup coarsely crumbled biscotti or gingersnap cookie crumbs
1⁄2 cup firmly packed brown sugar
6 tablespoons (3⁄4 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces
Pinch of salt
Vanilla ice cream (optional), for serving
You’ll also need:
One 8-by-10-inch aluminum disposable foil pan; cooking oil spray;
1 cup wood chips or chunks (preferably apple), soaked for 1 hour in water
to cover, then drained
Pick through the raspberries, removing any stems, leaves, or bruised berries. Place the berries and the diced pear in a large nonreactive mixing bowl. Drizzle with the lemon juice and stir gently. Add 1/4 cup of the flour and the granulated sugar, and the lemon zest and gently toss to mix. Lightly spray the aluminum foil pan with cooking spray. Spoon the raspberry-pear mixture into the aluminum foil pan.
Place the biscotti crumbs, brown sugar, and the remaining 1/2 cup of flour in a food processor fitted with the metal blade and process until a coarse powder forms. Add the butter and salt, then pulse until the mixture is coarse and crumbly. Spoon the topping over the filling.
Set up the grill for indirect grilling and preheat to medium-high. If using a gas grill, place all of the wood chips or chunks in the smoker box or in a smoker pouch and run the grill on high until you see smoke, then reduce the heat to medium-high. If using a charcoal grill, preheat it to medium-high, then toss all of the wood chips or chunks on the coals.
When ready to cook, place the pan with the filling in the center of the hot grate, away from the heat, and cover the grill. Cook the crumble until the filling is bubbling and the topping is browned, about 40 minutes. Serve the crumble hot or warm, ideally with vanilla ice cream.
Variation: For an outrageously delicious twist on this crumble, replace the raspberries and pear with blueberries and peaches. (Raspberries and peaches are good together, too.)
TURKEY PASTRAMI
Source: Adapted from How to Grill by Steven Raichlen (Workman, 2001)
Method: Smoking, then direct grilling
Serves: 8 to 12
Advance Preparation: 24 hours for curing the turkey
For the rub:
3 tablespoons ground coriander
2-1/2 tablespoons cracked black peppercorns
1 teaspoon aniseed or ground anise
1/4 cup sweet paprika
2 tablespoons mustard
3 tablespoons dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground mace
8 to 10 cloves of garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons coarse salt (kosher or sea)
1 to 2 tablespoons canola or other vegetable oil
1 bone-in or boneless turkey breast (4 to 5 pounds)
You’ll also need:
2 cups wood chips, soaked for 1 hour in cold water to cover, then drained
Make the rub: Coarsely crush the coriander seeds in a mortar with a pestle, in a spice mill or coffee grinder, or by wrapping them in a dish cloth and crushing them with the edge of a heavy skillet. Combine the crushed seeds and the remaining rub ingredients in a small bowl and mix well with your fingers.
Rinse the turkey breast under cold running water, then drain and blot dry with paper towels. Using poultry shears, cut off the ribs, if necessary, and discard or save them for stock. Sprinkle and pat the rub on the turkey. Cover the breast with plastic wrap or place in a large resealable plastic bat (you will need to turn the bag 2 or 3 times during the curing process) and let cure in the refrigerator for 24 hours.
Set up the smoker or the grill (for indirect grilling). Preheat to medium-low. If using a charcoal grill, place a large drip pan in the center between the piles of coals. If using a gas grill, place all the wood chips in the smoker box or in a smoker pouch and preheat on high until you see smoke, then reduce the heat to medium-low.
When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. If using charcoal, toss 1 cup of wood chips on the coals. Brush the excess rub off the turkey with a paper towel. Place the breast in the center of the hot grate over the drip pan, away from the heat; cover the grill. Grill the breast until tender, 1-1/2 to 2 hours (the cooking time will depend on the size of the breast and the heat of the smoker or grill). To test for doneness, use an instant-read meat thermometer. The internal temperature should be at least 165 degrees F. If using a charcoal grill, you’ll need to add 12 fresh coals and 1/2 cup wood chips per side after 1 hour.
Transfer the turkey pastrami to a platter and let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until cold. To serve, cut the pastrami into thin slices across the grain. Serve on rye bread slathered with mustard
TURKEY PASTRAMI RUEBEN SANDWICHES
Note: On Primal Grill, Steven demonstrated Turkey Pastrami Sandwiches with kraut, pickles, and Russian dressing. And you could certainly stop there. But if you want to make a Rueben, the recipe is below.
Source: Raichlen’s Indoor Grilling
Method: Direct grilling
Serves: 2 – can be multiplied as desired
For the Russian dressing:
2/3 cup mayonnaise (preferably Hellmann’s)
1/4 cup chili sauce
2 tablespoons sweet pickle relish
Freshly ground black pepper
For the sandwich:
4 slices dark rye bread or marbled rye bread
2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) salted butter, at room temperature or melted
3 ounces turkey pastrami or corned beef, sliced paper-thin across the grain (about 8 slices)
3 ounces thinly sliced Swiss or Emmenthaler cheese (about 4 slices)
2/3 cup sauerkraut, drained and squeezed dry with paper towels
1 dill pickle, thinly sliced (optional)
Make the dressing. In a nonreactive mixing bowl, combine the mayonnaise, chili sauce, pickle relish, and black pepper. Refrigerate if not using immediately.
Using a knife or pastry brush, spread or brush the slices of bread on one side with the butter. Place 2 slices of bread on a work surface buttered side down, then spread the top of each with 1 tablespoon of the dressing. Arrange the slices of pastrami on the bread, followed by the slices of cheese, trimming both so that they come just to the edges of the bread. Place the trimmings in the center of the sandwiches. Spoon 1/3 cup of the sauerkraut over each sandwich, spreading it out to the edges of the bread. Top each sandwich with half the pickle slices, if desired. Spread the unbuttered side of the remaining 2 slices of bread with the remaining 2 tablespoons of dressing, dividing it evenly between them, then place them on top of the sandwiches, dressing side down.
When ready to cook, preheat your contact grill. Lightly coat the grill surface with cooking spray. Using a spatula, transfer the sandwiches to the grill and gently close the lid. Grill the sandwiches until the bread is browned and crisp and the cheese is melted, about 5 minutes. Cut each sandwich in half and serve at once.
SUNDAY MORNING SMOKED SALMON
Source: Raichlen on Indoor Grilling (Workman, 2004)
Method: Smoking
Serves: `4 to 6
Advance Preparation: 4 hours for curing
1-1/2 pounds skinless salmon fillet (preferably a center cut piece)
2 cups vodka
1 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
1/2 cup coarse salt (kosher or sea)
2 tablespoons cracked black pepper
Cooking oil spray (optional)
For serving:
Toast points or bagels
Cream cheese
Capers
Diced red onions
Chives
Sliced tomatoes
Chopped hard-boiled egg
You’ll also need:
1 tablespoon hardwood sawdust
Stovetop smoker
Run your fingers over the salmon fillet, feeling for bones, Using needle-nose pliers or tweezers, pull out any bones you find. Rinse the salmon under cold running water, then blot dry with paper towels. Place the fish in a nonreactive baking dish just large enough to hold it and pour the vodka over it. Turn the fillet over. Let marinate in the refrigerator for 20 minutes, turning the fillet twice.
Place the brown sugar, salt, pepper, and coriander in a mixing bowl and mix well, breaking up any lumps in the brown sugar with your fingers. Drain the fillet and blot it dry with paper towels. Dry the baking dish. Arrange a third of the sugar mixture in the bottom of the baking dish in the shape of the salmon fillet. Place the fillet on top and cover it with the remaining brown sugar mixture. Cover the baking dish with plastic wrap and let the fish cure in the refrigerator for 4 hours. When it’s properly cured, there will be a pool of liquid at the bottom of the baking dish—the liquid the salt has drawn out of the salmon.
Rinse the fish under cold water to wash off all the brown sugar mixture, then blot dry with paper towels.
Set up the stove-top smoker. Place the sawdust in the center of the bottom of the smoker. Line the drip pan with aluminum foil and place it in the smoker. Lightly coat the wire rack with cooking oil spray. Place the wire rack in the smoker. Place the salmon fillet on the rack with what was the skin side facing down.
Cover the smoker and place it over high heat for 3 minutes, then reduce the heat to medium. Smoke the salmon until cooked through, about 18 minutes. To test for doneness, press the fish with your finger; it should break into clean flakes.
Transfer the salmon to a wire rack placed over a plate and let it cool to room temperature, then refrigerate, covered, until ready to serve (salmon prepared this way tastes best served chilled). Serve it with bagels and the suggested accompaniments. Refrigerate the salmon for up to 4 days.