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In Memphis, Tennessee, and the Carolinas,
“barbecue” means just one thing: pork shoulder
smoke-roasted until it’s so tender you can pull it
apart with your fingers. But pit masters all over
the world love this crusty, meaty, well-marbled
cut, and today, I’m going to show you how to grill
the perfect pork shoulder—American, Caribbean, and
even Balinese style. No ifs, ands, or pork butts,
about it. |
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Source: BBQ USA by Steven Raichlen
(Workman, 2003)
Method: Indirect grilling or smoking
Serves 12 to 14
For the rub and Boston butt:
2 teaspoons dry mustard
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon ground white pepper
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon onion powder
1/2 to 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 Boston butt (bone-in pork shoulder roast), 5 to 7
pounds
For the mop sauce:
2 cups distilled white vinegar
1/2 cup Dijon-style mustard
1/2 cup water
1 tablespoon salt
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
Memphis Mustard Slaw
Makes 5 to 6 cups
For the slaw:
1 small or 1/2 large head green cabbage (about 1-1/2 pounds)
1/2 red bell pepper
For the dressing:
1/4 cup yellow mustard
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup distilled white vinegar
1/2 teaspoon celery seed
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste
Salt
Remove the core from the cabbage and discard it. Cut the cabbage into 8 chunks. Finely chop the cabbage in a food processor using the metal blade and pulsing the motor (this is a chopped, not sliced or slivered, slaw); work in several batches if needed.
Cut the bell pepper into fine dice.
Make the dressing: Place the mustard, mayonnaise, and sugar in a large nonreactive mixing bowl and whisk until smooth. Whisk in the vinegar, celery seed, and black pepper. Add the cabbage and bell pepp er and stir to mix. Taste for seasoning, adding salt and pepper as necessary. Refrigerate until serving time. The slaw can be made up to 1 day ahead.
For serving:
10 to 12 hamburger buns
3 tablespoons butter (optional), melted)
Thinly sliced sweet or dill pickles
Memphis Mustard Slaw (recipe below)
You’ll also need:
4 to 6 cups hardwood chips (preferably hickory),
soaked in water to
cover for 1 hour, then drained
Combine the dry rub ingredients in a small bowl and
stir to mix. Sprinkle the rub all over the pork,
patting it onto the meat with your fingertips. Let
the pork cure at room temperature while you make
the mop sauce.
Make the mop sauce. Combine the vinegar, mustard,
water, salt and pepper in a large nonreactive
mixing bowl, add 1/2 cup of water, and whisk until
the salt dissolves.
Set up the grill for indirect grilling and preheat
to medium-low (about 250 degrees F). If using a gas
grill, place all the wood chips or chunks in a
smoker box or smoker pouch and run the grill on
high until you see smoke, then reduce the heat to
medium-low. If using a charcoal grill, place a
large drip pan in the center, preheat the grill to
medium-low, then toss 1 cup of the wood chips or
chunks on the coals.
When ready to cook, place the pork, skin side up,
if there is one, in the center of the hot grate
over the drip pan and away from the heat. Cover the
grill. Cook the pork until darkly browned on the
outside and very tender inside, 4 to 6 hours. To
test for doneness, use an instant-read meat
thermometer: The internal temperature of the pork
should be about 195 degrees F. If the pork starts
to brown too much (and it probably will), cover it
loosely with aluminum foil, but remember that the
browned bits are good, too. Every hour for the
first 4 hours, swab the pork with some of the mop
sauce, using a barbecue mop or basting brush. If
using a charcoal grill, every hour you’ll need to
add 12 fresh coals and 1/2 cup of wood chips or
chunks to each side.
Transfer the pork to a cutting board, cover it
loosely with aluminum foil, and let it rest for 20
minutes. You could pull or chop the pork, but I
like to slice it across the grain (the practice of
many South Carolina Pit masters). Place the pork
slices in an aluminum foil pan. If you are not
quite ready to serve, cover the pan with aluminum
foil and place it on a warm—not hot—grill or in a
low oven.
If desired, brush the hamburger buns with the
melted butter and lightly toast them on the grill.
Load each bun with pork. Top with pickle slices.
Serve at once with South Carolina Mustard Barbecue
Sauce.
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Makes about 3 cups
1 tablespoon butter
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1 cup Dijon mustard
3/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar
3/4 cup distilled white vinegar
1 tablespoon hot sauce (preferably Crystal), or
more to taste
Coarse salt (kosher or sea)
Freshly ground black pepper
Melt the butter in a heavy nonreactive saucepan
over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook
until soft but not brown, about 3 minutes.
Stir in the mustard, brown sugar, vinegar, and hot
sauce and add 1/2 cup of water. Let the sauce
simmer, uncovered, until thick and richly flavored,
6 to 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning, adding more
hot sauce as necessary and seasoning with salt and
pepper to taste. Let the sauce cool to room
temperature before serving. In the unlikely case
you have any mustard sauce left, store it in a
clean jar in the refrigerator. It will keep for at
least a week; bring it to room temperature before
serving. |
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Source: The Barbecue Bible by Steven
Raichlen (Workman, 2008)
Method: Rotisserie or indirect grilling
Serves: 6 to 8
1 boneless pork shoulder roast (about 4 pounds)
4 large shallots, peeled
4 to 8 Thai chiles or 2 to 4 jalapenos
4 cloves garlic, peeled
2 tablespoons chopped fresh ginger
1 tablespoon chopped fresh turmeric or 1/2 teaspoon
ground turmeric
1 tablespoon chopped fresh galangal or additional
ginger
3 stalks fresh lemongrass, trimmed and finely
chopped (about 1/4 cup), or 3
strips lemon zest
1-1/2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon finely ground black pepper
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon firmly packed light brown sugar
2 teaspoons coarse salt (kosher or sea)
5 tablespoons vegetable oil, or more as needed
You’ll also need: Butcher’s string
Using a sharp, heavy knife, cut a deep pocket in
one side of the roast, starting and ending about
3/4 inch from each end and cutting almost all the
way through to the other side. Set the roast aside
while you prepare the spice paste.
Combine the shallots, chiles, garlic, ginger,
turmeric, galangal, lemongrass, coriander, pepper,
lime juice, sugar, and salt and 2 tablespoons of
oil in a mortar and pound to a smooth paste with
the pestle. Or combine all the ingredients in a
food processor or mini chopper and process to a
smooth paste.
Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a wok or small
nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the spice
paste and saute until fragrant and shiny, about 5
minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from the
heat and cool, about 15 minutes.
Spread half of the spice paste into the pocket you
cut in the pork. Tie the roast, using butcher’s
string, at 1 inch intervals, or pin the opening
shut with metal skewers. Using a rubber spatula,
spread the remaining paste over the entire surface
of the roast and set aside while you prepare the
grill.
Rotisserie Method: Set up the grill for the
rotisserie and preheat the grill to high. When
ready to cook, skewer the roast lengthwise on the
spit and let it rotate on the grill until nicely
browned and cooked through, 1 to 1-1/2 hours,
brushing with the remaining oil as needed. (If
using charcoal, add 10 to 12 fresh coals per side
after 1 hour.) When tested with an instant-read
meat thermometer, the internal temperature should
read 170 degrees.
Indirect Grilling Method: Set up the grill for
indirect grilling, placing a drip pan in the center
of the coals, and preheat to medium. When ready to
cook, oil the grill grate. Place the roast on the
hot grate over the drip pan, cover, and cook until
nicely browned on all sides and the internal
temperature is 170 degrees F, 1-1/2 to 2 hours,
basting occasionally with the remaining oil. Add
fresh coals as above.
Transfer the roast to a cutting board or platter,
removing it from the spit first, if needed, and let
stand for 10 minutes. Remove the string or skewers
and slice into thin crosswise slices to serve. |
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Source: The Barbecue Bible by Steven
Raichlen (Workman, 1998)
Serves: 6
3 cups jasmine rice
1-1/2 cups coconut water or plain water
1-1/2 cups chicken broth, homemade or canned
low-sodium
3/4 cup coconut milk
1 stalk fresh lemongrass, trimmed and flattened
with the side of a cleaver,
or 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
4 slices fresh galangal or ginger (each 1/4 inch
thick), lightly crushed with the side of
a cleaver
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 tablespoon salt
Place the rice in a large bowl and add cold water
to cover by 3 inches. Swirl the rice around with
your fingers until the water becomes cloudy, then
pour through a strainer to drain. Repeat until the
water remains clear, 4 to 6 rinsings.
Place the coconut water, chicken broth, coconut
milk, lemongrass, galangal, turmeric, and salt in a
large heavy pot and bring to a boil over high heat.
Add the rice and return the water to a boil. Reduce
the heat to low and cover the pot tightly. Cook the
rice until just tender, 15 to 18 minutes. Remove
the pot from the heat and let the rice stand,
covered, for 5 minutes.
Gently fluff the rice with a fork. Remove the
lemongrass and galangal slices. To serve the rice
in the traditional Balinese manner, pack it into a
lightly oiled large funnel or other cone-shaped
mold. Let stand with the wide opening propped up in
a deep bowl or pot covered with aluminum foil for 3
minutes. Place a platter over the base of the mold
and invert and unmold the rice onto it. |
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Source: Raichlen on Ribs by Steven
Raichlen (Workman Publishing,
2006)
Makes about 1 cup
3 tablespoons rice vinegar or distilled white
vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt (kosher or sea)
2 Kirby (pickling cucumbers), peeled and very
thinly sliced
1/4 medium onion, thinly sliced crosswise
Place the vinegar, sugar, and salt in a nonreactive
mixing bowl and whisk until the sugar and salt
dissolve. Stir in the cucumber and onion. Let the
salad marinate in the refrigerator, covered, for at
least 10 minutes or as long as 4 hours before
serving. |
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Source: The Barbecue Bible by Steven
Raichlen (Workman Publishing, 2008)
Method: Direct grilling
Serves: 4
1 pound long beans (see Note) or green beans
2 tablespoons sesame oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted
Preheat the grill to high. Bring a large pot of
salted water to a boil and cook the beans until
crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Refresh in a bowl of
ice water and drain well. Cut each bean into 8- to
9-inch lengths and tie each into a loose knot (see
Note). Let dry on paper towels
When ready to grill, preheat a vegetable grate (if
using) for 5 minutes. Brush the knotted beans with
sesame oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Arrange on the hot grate and grill, turning with
tongs, until nicely browned, 4 to 6 minutes in all.
Transfer the long beans to plates or a platter,
sprinkle with the sesame seeds, and serve
immediately. (Optional serving idea: Tie bundles of
beans together with blanched scallion greens.)
Note: Long beans are available through some
specialty produce stores, or can be ordered from www.melissas.com. If using
regular green beans, thread them, 4 or 5 at a
time, crosswise on short bamboo skewers (the
effect is raft-like). Young, slender green
beans don’t need to be parboiled. |
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Method: Indirect grilling
Serves: 12
Advance Preparation: At least 4 hours for
marinating the meat
1 medium white onion, cut in quarters
4 cloves garlic
1/4 cup achiote paste
1/3 cup fresh orange juice
1/3 cup fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon oregano, preferably Mexican
2 teaspoons coarse salt (kosher or sea)
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 pork shoulder roast (4 to 5 pounds)
Fresh or frozen banana leaves or a 12 x 24 inch
sheet of aluminum foil (optional)
For serving:
Yucatecan Pickled Onions
Xni Pec Salsa
Corn tortillas, warmed or toasted over the fire
Heat a dry comal or frying pan over medium-high
heat. Saute the onion and garlic until they are
nicely browned on all sides: 8 to 10 minutes for
the onion, 4 to 6 minutes for the garlic.
Alternatively, you can roast the onion and garlic
on a preheated grill over high heat. Thread the
onion quarters on slender bamboo skewers, and the
garlic cloves on skewers or toothpicks. Grill the
onion and garlic until nicely browned on all sides
(4 to 8 minutes per side for the onion, 2 to 4
minutes for the garlic).
Place the onion, garlic, achiote paste, orange
juice, lime juice, vinegar, oregano, salt, and
pepper in a blender jar and puree until smooth.
With a sharp knife, make shallow slits (about 1/2
inch) on the surface of the meat. Place the pork
shoulder in a deep bowl just large enough to hold
it or in a large resealable plastic bag. Pour the
marinade over the pork and marinate for at least 4
hours, or more ideally, overnight, turning two or
three times. Wrap the pork in banana leaves (or in
aluminum foil), pinning the leaves shut with
toothpicks or bamboo skewers.
When ready to cook, set up the grill for indirect
grilling and preheat to medium (350 degrees F). If
using a charcoal grill, put an aluminum drip pan in
the center. Brush and oil the grill grate.
Place the pork shoulder in the center of the grill,
over the drip pan, and away from the heat. Cover,
and indirect grill until the pork is cooked through
inside. Cooking time will be 2 to 2-1/2 hours. To
test for doneness, insert an instant-read
thermometer in the meat; the temperature should be
about 190 degrees F.
Transfer the pibil to a cutting board and let rest
for 10 minute. Pull out and discard the shoulder
bone and any large lumps of fat. Finely shred the
pork, using 2 forks, or finely chop with a cleaver.
If you have any drippings from the drip pan, you
can stir in a few spoonfuls. Transfer the meat to a
platter. Serve the pibil on warm tortillas (warm
them for 10 seconds per side on the grill), with
Yucatecan Pickled Onions, and the Xni Pec Salsa. |
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Makes about 1-1/2 cups
1 tablespoon coarse salt (kosher or sea), plus more
to taste
1 large red onion, peeled, sliced 1/8 inch thick,
and separated into rings
2 cloves garlic, peeled and quartered
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon oregano, preferably Mexican
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1 bay leaf
3 whole allspice berries
1/2 cup distilled white vinegar
Pour 6 cups of cold water into a medium nonreactive
saucepan. Add salt, and stir to dissolve. Add
onions and garlic. Bring to a boil over medium-high
heat; boil for 1 minute. Remove from heat and drain
onions.
Return onions and garlic to the saucepan. Add the
pepper, oregano, cumin, bay leaf, allspice, and
vinegar. Add enough water to cover the onions and
bring to a boil over medium heat. Remove from heat,
cover the saucepan, and allow to rest and cool.
Taste, and add more salt if needed. Pour onions
into a covered bowl or glass jar, then refrigerate.
Will keep up to a week. |
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Makes about 1 cup
2 to 8 fresh habanero or serrano chiles, finely
chopped (for a hotter
salsa, leave seeds in)
1 large fresh ripe tomato, cut into 1/4-inch dice,
with juices
1 small white onion, finely chopped
3 tablespoons fresh cilantro, finely chopped
3 tablespoons fresh sour orange juice, or 2
tablespoons fresh lime juice and 1 tablespoon fresh
orange juice
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt (kosher or sea), or more
to taste
Combine the chiles, tomato, onion, cilantro, sour
orange juice, and salt in a nonreactive serving
bowl. Toss gently to mix. Correct the seasoning,
adding more chiles, sour orange juice, or salt as
necessary. The salsa tastes best when freshly made. |
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